Jewellery fashion of the Middle Hellenistic Age

During the 2'"' period of development of jewellery, coinciding with the Middle Hellen­istic Period (2^,,d half of 3^rd and the 2"^d Century ВС), gold adornments typical of the Hellenistic fashion were disseminated extremely seldom in the interior of Thrace. In these régions were populär the traditional Thracian forms and motifs, imported La Tene jewellery or adorn­ments macie in locai workshops influencée! by the La Tene ones (ДомАРАДСКИ 1984, 138-142: Tonkova 1997). Almost ali Hellenistic adorn­ments were found on the Black Sea coast not in the interior. As a ride these are new types or developed jewellery forms and motifs known from the Early Hellenistic Period.

Evidence of the active iole of Odessos dur­ing the second period is one burial with finds including gold jewellery - a necklace consisting of band-chains with a medallion and appliqués decorated with relief représentations of Eros, Aphrodite and Artemis and a hoop earring with a lion head terminal (Munte 1947, 239-241, обр. 1-3. - here Pl. I. 5). The stylistic pccu-liarities ofthe adornments characteristic ofthe end of 3"' and the beginning ofthe 2"^d Century ВС give reason to date the burial a Century later than the date pointed in the first publication on them. The busts ol the deitics represented on the necklace are typical of the jewellery fashion ol this period. The closest parallels of these im­ages are from the eastern Mediterrancan coast (Miller 1979, 33, pi. 20 a; 21; Deppert-Lippit? 1985, 278). Their style and iconography are similar but the workmanship is very différent. For the making ofthe medal lions from Odessos were used the traditional ol the period tech­niques and no enamel or inlay were applied. This professional conservatism speaks that the workshop in which they were made was situateci far from the Mediterranean centres of jewellery production, which were leading in the estab-lishing ol the fashionable for the period polv-chrome style. Good évidence of the dating of the find gives the earring which can be dated to the 2'^ld century ВС. It represents a late variety of the earrings with lion-head terminais and its él­éments (hoop, collar, proportion) have parallels only from the territory of present Norihcasiern Bulgaria, of the northwestern and northern Black Sea coast (Димитрова 1989, 3, 8, табл. I, 16, Вариант II). Therefore, we may suppose that this is a local variety. Odessos is one ofthe possible centres of production of such jewellery or at least one of the centres whence they were disseminated. Almost identica! earrings were found in Thracian territories near the Balkan to the north of it (Димитрова 1989, 9) with which Odessos maintained active contacts like in the previous period. This workshop had createci its own aesthetic conception (though within the frames ofthe Hellenistic fashion) and defendeel it on a high professional level.

Another set of adornments with unknown origin has characteristic features typical of the sanie workshop. It could be related with Odessos as well as with other colonies situateti to the north of the Balkan. This find consists of a hoop earring terminating in a head of a lion-grillin and several éléments of a necklace - a medallion shaped as a disc and crescent-like pendants (Pl. IV). They could be dated to the end ofthe 3"' and the 2^nd Century BC. This type of necklace and earring bas close paral­lels among the Greek adornments of différent centres. However, identical spécimens or ob­jects with identical characteristic éléments were found only on the northern and northeastern Black Sea coast where most likely they were made (Димитрова/Тоикова 1989, 70-75).

Of interest is a pair ol earrings with bull-head terminais about which there is information that were found in the district of "Dionysopo-lis (present Baltchik) or in Dobroudja" (Филов 1910, 225, обр. 1.- here Pl. III, 2). They could be taken as évidence of the iole of mediatore which the Black Sea centers playeel in this re­gion. These earrings are considered produets of

an eastern workshop because of the character­istic stylization of the bull's head (Венедиков/ Герасимов 1973, 101). Most of the identical ob­jects were found on Cyprus where we may look for the origin of the type (Hadaczek 1903, 46; Hiccins 1961, 161, 213). Conservatism is char­acteristic oí its development, which might be explained with the supposition that it was tra-ditional in the centres where it was produced. I. Venedikov has dated the earring to the 3^nl Century ВС (Bei 1Едпков/Герасимов 1973, кат. 184). In considération of their closest parallels, we may date them more precisely to the period after the middle of the 3rd Century and even

to the end oí the 3"' and the beginning of the 2^nd Century ВС (Hoffman/Claer 1968, kat.76; Deppert-Lippitz 1985, fig. 191). This date is con-firmed also by the techniques applied - enamel, pseudo filigree and pseudo granulation. The earliest earrings with enamel found in Thrace are from a grave from Messambria dated to the second half of the 3^,d Century ВС (Чпмбулевл 1964, 58, обр. 3, а-в). In a grave from Apol­lonia (présent Sozopol) dated to the etici of the 3^ul Century ВС were found earrings decorated with pseuclo filigree and pseudo granulation (Мллденова 1963, 294, табл.159). The pro­portions between the différent éléments of the earrings with bulls' heads which are similar to those of the earrings with lion-head terminais from the second period (Димитрова 1989, 8-9, вариант II - here Pl. I, 5) also support the sup-posecl date.

Most of the finds from Messambria can be referred to the very end of the 3^ldand the first hall of the 2'"' Century ВС. This mark a com-paratively short but very fruitful period of the development of jewellery in the colony. These chronological boundaries have been established considering the dating of the burial complexes as well as the style of the adornments offered in the graves.

In the ont set of their study the jewellery from Messambria has been referred to the sec­ond half of the 3"' Century, but now they can be related with a better certainty to the jewellery fashion of the 2^ndCentury. I. Galabov has dated the rich graves with gold jewellery generally to the 3"' Century ВС, poiiiting out grounds cer­tain complexes to be dated also after the mid­die ofthe $** century (Гълъбов 1955, 129-147). In an article devoted espccially to the jewellery I.Frel has dated most of the jewellery from Mes-sambria to the period around the middle of the 3^rd century BC (Frel 1963, GÌ- 69). In the graves which were excavated later and dated to the 2^nd half of the 3^,d and the beginning of the 2"^d century BC were found many spécimens belonging to the same types and even identical ones (Петров/Чимбулева 1963, 26; Чпмбулевл 1964, 61; С imbu le va 2005, 91-103). In his turn M. Pfrommer dated the adornments from Mes­sa mbria to a shorter period - from the end of the 3"' to the beginning ofthe 2"^d century and pointed out that one of the complexes with adornments carne from the second half of the 2"^d century (Pfrommer 1990, 249- 250, FK 95-98).

These chronological frames are accepted in the present study on the base of the following arguments. The earlier complex with jewellery in polychrome style is dated in the very end of the 3"' or the beginning ofthe 2"^d century ac­cording to the date of a black-glazed cup deco­rated with a rosette and a frieze of dolphins in a West slope style. A cup from Pergamom with a rosette in the same style is related towards 220 BC (Sciiafer 1968, 58-59, Taf. 10, D2), and another similar cup from Messambria, but with a différent frieze, is dated in the 2^nd cen­tury (Ogn enova 1960. 230, Abb.9; Pfrommer 1990, 250, К 98, réf. 2035). The blossoming of the jewellery fashion in Messambria contin­uée! at least to the 3^,d quarter of the 2^nd century. Grounds for this conclusion gives the cup with a relief décoration with a frieze of galloping bigas with Nike and flora! patterns found in a grave abundant in gold jewellery (Гълъбов 1955, 134-135, обр. 5). It has been considered as a product of one of the most significant Ionian workshops functioning in the late 2"^dcentury. For the date of the articles from Mesambria of particular im­portance is the fact that the production of the workshop, called "Atelier du Monogramme", was in circulation before 125 BC, too, when a Celtic oppidum was destroyed and where frag­ments of vases of this type were found (Laumo-mfr 1977, 131-132).

The fact that several types and components of décoration were repeated so often can be expiai ned by the relative cphemeral flourish­ing of the splendici jewellery fashion in Messa­mbria. The adornments from Messambria are mainly golden, most of them with polychrome décoration. In this city were popular the hoop earrings terminating with a head ol lion-grif-fin, head of a maenad or a protome of Pegasos; chains with golden terminais decorateci with a colour bead and a head of a lion-griff in, spirai snake rings, ring with a profiled bezel as well as brooches. Here we would like to point out some arguments concerning their dating. The earrings with a head of a maenad (чимбулева 1964, 58, обр.З, а-в.- here Pl. V, 4; Cimbuleva 2005, 104-105, fig. 17/1) were popular in the 3^rd century and later on (HlGGlNS 1961, 162; Greifenhagen 1975, 58-59, pi. 471, 2, 3; Mar­shall 1911, N 1699-1700). The earrings with a forepart of Pegasos (ГъАЪБОВ 1955, 141, обр. 15, a, 6) have close parallels of the 3^ld century BC found at Montefortino at Arcevia (Hadaczek 1903, 50, fig. 90; for the date cp. HlGGlNS 1961, 164). M. Pfrommer (1990, 249, OR 471) dates the examples from Messambria in the early 2'"' century. A pair of brilliant hoop-earrings termi­nating with a head of a lion-gi iffin and a beaci of cornelian was found in a grave from Messa­mbria with materials of the late 3^rd - 2^nd century BC (Cimbuleva 2005, 99-100, fig. 13/1). The very characteristic of Messambrian chains with golden terminais with the same motif (Гълъвов 1955, 141-144, обр. 9; 10, д; Петров/Чимбулева 1963, 25; Чпмбулевл 1964, 58, обр.4, а, б. - here Pl. V:l) have many parallels of the end of 3^rd and the next century (Greifenhagen 1975, 119, pl. 9; HlGGlNS 1961, pl. 51 B; Marshall 1911, N 1964; Максимова 1979, 54, фиг. 10). However, some of the terminais from Messambria have some peculiarities like the elongated silhouette ofthe lions' heads, collais profiled like triangles and other characteristics of the style repeating in a great number of articles, a fact showing that they are a product of one and the sanie work­shop.

Another peculiarity of Messambrian jew­ellery fashion are the spiral serpentiform fin-gerings, a type broadly attested in the Greek jewellery (Greifenhagen 1975, 119, pl. 9; HiG-gins 1961, pl. 51 B; Marshall 1911, N 1964; Максимова 1979, 54, фиг. 10). A fingering with a snake's head was found in a grave from Messambria of the end of the 3"' century BC

According to some opinions the earrings with a demon's head could not be Greek (Frei. 1963, 66) but might be Thracian (Гъльвов 1955, 135; Венедпков/Герлсимов 1973, 102). However, the opinion that they have a Thracian origin is disputable since there are spiral bracelets with identical images identified as Ketos found in several Mediterranean centres - from Eretria, of the end of the 3^,d century BC (Hoffman/Dav-idson 1965, N 68), and from the hoard Carpe-nisi (?) in Thessaly, of the first half of the 2^ml century BC (Amandry 1953, NN 262-263; 1963, 249). A bracelet of this variety is represented on the hand of Artemis on a médaillon from the same hoard. This personage is represented on other kinds of adornments too (Amandry 1953, 118).

Characteristic only of Messambria are also the rings with a ptofiled bezel. There are six rings of this type belonging to two variants. The first aie with broadened shoulders which join the piate forming an acute angle (Чпмбулевл 1964, 58, обр. 2, a; 60, обр. 26). The second are with straight shoulders (Гълъбов 1955, 141, обр.9, г,.д; 145, обр. 10, а, б). Three of the rings are local imitations. This type is characteris­tic of the period 3"^l-2"^<1 century BC (Laffîneur 1980, 414; Henkel 1913, 103). Rings, identical or similar to those from Messambria were found in Crete, Thessaly, Kertch and Tarentum, oth-ers now belonging to the collection "Canello-poulos" (HicciNS 1961, 174, pl.54, d; Amandry 1953, 105-106, pl.XII, fig. 65; Ondzejova 1975, 35, pl. 1,11, N 4; Laffîneur 1980, kat. 106, figs. 115-116; Alessio 1985, 296, kat. 226). A glass ring belonging to the first variant was found in a grave in Apollonia of the end of the 3^,d or the beginning of the 2'"' century ВС (Младенова 1963, 310, табл.166, N 1000.- here Pl. VI, 6).

The brooehes are another typical représent­ative of the fashion of Messambria. This kind of adornment consists of a plate with a fibula for fastening il. Five of those were found - three gold ones, one made of silver and one made of bronze (Гълъбов 1955, 141 сл., обр.7; 8, б; 9, б; 11; Чпмбулева 1964, 58, обр. 5.- here Pl. V, 3,7,8). Only one of them could be considered imported (Чпмбулева 1964, обр. 5. - here Pl. V, 3). Similar to it (as far as the shape, the style and the détails of the décoration are concerned) are two brooehes from Melos from the У^л-2^пЛ cen­tury BC which are considered Ionian produc­tion (Huffman/Davidson 1965, 196, N 74). The way the brooehes were fastened also signifies that they date in the 2^nd half of the 3^,d century or later on (Домарадски 1984, 139). According to some opinions these decorative plates have a mutuai origin with the Thracian pectorals (Венедиков/Герасимов 1973, 106). However, their style and construction as well as the point-ed out comparisons with similar adornments show that they were used in more conventional way - to fasten the piece of cloth on the shoulder or on the bi east.

I. Fiel divided the adornments from Messa­mbria into two groups - imported and produced in a local workshop according to the quality of the jewellery workmanship (Frel 1963, 63-65). In the first one are included objects which can be considered belonging to the masterpieces of the Hellenistic jewellery. Many adornments be­longing to several types and variants and even identical objects were found in Messambria. This could be explained with the links of Mes­sambria established for a short period with one or several jewellery centres where these similar objects were made. It is difficult to locate thèse foreign centres because of this period was char­acteristic homogeneous style of jewellery which makes the régional differentiation not easy to establish (Miller 1979, 50). Very often almost identical adornments are found on the north-ern and the western Black Sea coast, in the Aegean région, in the Eastern Mediterranean région as well as in South Italy. In spite of this fact, it is reasonable to look at the Aegean ré­gion for the centers with which Messambria was in contact because there were found the closest parallels belonging to the same types, variants and even identical objects. The homogeneous style and the high quality of workmanship of the gold jewels from Messambria can also find another explanation which seems to be more reasonable. These characteristics are perhaps, sooner, an indication of the high professional-ism of the local craftsmen and workshops. It is more probable that Messambria itself, showing an economie prosperity in this period, would have been amongst the leading centres of Greek jewellery.

The adornments from Messambria give rea-son to draw conclusions on the development of the Hellenistic jewellery in general. They rep-resent évidence illustrating the change in the jewellery fashion after the end of the 3"¹ and the beginning of the 2^nd century, represented by new forms and motifs, executed in a différ­ent style. The brooehes can be considered as a new kind of adornment. Many of the examples from Messambria are decorated with a winged thunderbolt. New forms were accepted espe-cially among the rings - spiral rings and such massive or hollow with a profiled bezel. As far as the other kinds of jewellery are concerned new motifs came Ulto use. The hoop earrings for example were decorated with lion-griffin, maenad, forepart of Pegasos. The chronology of these hoop earrings offe red here (the end of the 3"'and the first half of the 2"^d century BC) confìrms the B. Deppert-Lippitz's supposition about the time of introducing of the différent motifs in the Hellenistic jewellery. According to it, the hoop earrings were decorated first with

lions' heads and then appeared the other figurai représentations (Deppert-LippiTZ 1985, 202). Ac­cording to the examples from Messambria it can be supposed that this change occurred around and after the end ofthe 3^rd Century. The dating of the spiral serpentiform fingerings to the end of the 3^r<1 or in the first half of the 2^nd Century makes the chronology of the dissémination of this type more precise. This fact may be used as a fulcrum of the supposition that the spiral rings as well as perhaps the spiral bracelets were in use in the Middle and the Late Hellenistic Period and not earlier (Pff.ilf.r-Lippitz 1972, 114; Deppert-Lippitz 1985, 273).

Another characteristic feature of the jewel­lery from Messambria is the polychrome déco­ration (Tonroba 2002). Almost all objects are decorated with inlay and one with enamel. Ac­cording to the publications the stones used are opal (actually cornelian), amethyst, red, green and brown stones, blue glass pearls etc. The finds from Messambria have helped for making more precise the chronology of one typical of this region type of jewellery - the necklaces with terminais composed of a colour bead (of cor­nelian or glass paste with red colour, according to professional expertise performed rccently by Ruslan Kostov) and a lion-griffin head. They have shown that in the end ofthe 3^,dand the be­ginning ofthe 2'"'century the golden collar was replaced by a colour stone bead or a glass one in a gold casing. From the interior of Thrace, the early Hellenistic chains with gold terminais from the mound of Mezek (Филов 1937, 77, обр. 84, 4) represent a suitable example for comparison. M. Maximova has recorded a similar observa­tion on the chains from the Artuhovsky kurgan. According to her the change took place around the middle of the 2"^d Century ВС (Максимова 1979, 34). According to the existing date of the complexes with chains from Messambria obvi­ously tins change had already occurred a little bit earlier. It has to be taken into account that in one ofthe complexes along with an adornment of this type the already described cup with re­lief décoration which, as it was mentioned, dates after the middle ofthe 2"^d century.

The second group of adornments from the cemetery of Messambria consists of gold foil imitations of originai gold spécimens (Pl. V, 6-8) which are products of locai workshops. Since they are fragile and their workmanship is not precise, they have been considcred as objects used in the funerary rites (ГЪЛЪБОВ 1955, 138-139; Frei 1963, 63). There are imitations of the most kinds ofthe "solid" adornments from Mes­sambria like earrings with a maenad head (Pl.V, 6), chains with lion-griffin terminais (Pl.V, 5), rings with profiled bezels, the snake fingerings. Through other examples made of gold foil like disc earrings with a pendant shaped as Nike, earrings with a pigeon, brooches with figurai compositions etc. (Гълъбов 1955, 135, 144, обр.8, в, г; 11, 14) we receive information about other types of original gold adornments which are expected to be found in Messambria. The jeweller has tried to make a relief représentation without paying much attention to the détails. I. Frei supposes that they were made into import­ed dies (Frei. 1963, 65). According to me, it is possible that they were hammered over mod-els of perishable material. Another manner for manufacturing some of the décorations is also presumable. The great resemblance to "solid" adornments front the sanie necropolis, as well as the often amorphous character of the im­ages, makes us suppose that they were made by pressing the foil on original gold objects ofthe same type. According to the observations of P. Amandry (Amandry 1963, 215) in this way most likely were made imitations of adornments be-longing now to the collection of H. Stathatos.

In Apollonia too, the Middle Hellenistic Pe­riod was marked by flourishing ofthe jewellery fashion. The number of the gold adornments increased. In fact, almost ali gold spécimens found in the ancient necropolis of Apollonia be-long lo this period (Младенова 1963, 293). In a grave of the end of the 3^ld century was found a ring with a relief représentation of Aphrodite and Eros, terminais of a necklace with a garnet in a casing and a Negro head and hoop earrings with a head of a maenad (Младенова 1963, 302, 294-296, N 956,909-912, табл.158, 159, гроб 702.- here PIVI, 1,3,4). Another pair of earrings ofthe same type but representing another vari­ant was found in a grave of the end of 3^r,1or the beginning of the 2^nd century ВС (младенова 1963, 296, N 913-914, табл.159.- here PIVI 2). The fusi two finds can be considcred Hellenis­tic adornments imported in Apollonia because of their complicateci construction, precise work-manship and numerous parallels among the Hellenistic jewellery. There is not évidence that in Apollonia there was a workshop with these professional characteristics.

The number of the finds from Apollonia is not great so we should not draw general con­clusions. However each of the objects gives op­portunity interesting observations to be carried out. The ring with représentations of Aphrodite and Eros (pl. VI, 3) was found in a grave from the end ofthe 3^,d century BC, bui J. Mladenova has expressed the opinion that its shape is closer to the 4^,h-century rings, so she has dated it "not later than the end of the century" (Младенова 1963, 300). It is true that the shape (hoop Ut­ting the from of the finger, round Shoulders and raised bezel or plate) relates it to a type which existed lòr a long period of time among the Hellenistic jewellery (Boardman 1970, 219, type XI, XII, XIII), but the images représentée! associâtes it with the production of the period 3^r,l-2^ndcentury ВС. Two parallels come from this time - a ring from Tanais and a die for produc­tion of similar rings from Tirytake (K.olkowna 1980, 112-114). Another example - the image on a ring from the board Carpenisi (?) in Thessaly (Amandry 1953, 105-106) is closest to that from Apollonia. These images were very populär in the 2"^d half of the 3^,d century BC and later on, a fact confirmée! by many meclallions ofthe same period from Kampanari, Thessaly as well as from the northern and western Black Sea coast (Greifenhagen 1975, pl. 68, 4; Hoffman/David-son 1965, N 91; Amandry 1953, 99-100, N 235; Greifenhagen 1970,40, pl.17; Младенова 1963, 299, табл. 158A).

In the same grave of the end of the 3^nl cen­tury were found also the terminais of a necklace (Pl. VI, 4) with obliterate Negro heads of colour stones, probably garnet. For the reconstruction of the motif we have found a base in modem earrings and necklace terminais. The closest parallel of the manner the hair is représentée! is the earring from Kyme in Asia Minor of the end of the 4'¹' century or later (HiCGiNS 1961, pl. 47G), and of the construction of the whole fastener - the necklace from Buelva dateci to the 3"^l-2"'^lcentury BC in accordance with the dating of the necropolis in which it was found (RendiC-Miocevic 1959, IV, 15, fig.5). It supposée! that the necklace and the earrings with Negro heads from Buelva had come from Tarentum. Reason for this statement has not been the motif, which is considered of orientai origin and typical ol Alexandria but some peculiarities of the tech­nique used as well as the style. Considering the great resemblance between the fastener from Apollonia and the earring from Kyme we may

look for a connection between this find and an eastern workshop. Other parallels to the fas-tener from Apollonia can also be pointed out - from the muséum at Houston, dated to the late 3^rJ century BC (Deppert-Lippitz 1985, 221, fig. 157), from Melos, dated after the 3^,cl century BC (Marshall 1911, pl.XXXVI, N 1961), etc.

The earrings with female head (pl. VI, I) from the same grave are not of good quality. The craftsman had a good die for the face but the rest of the éléments were not carefully made. The décoration of the collar is hammered on the inner side (pseudo-filigree and pseudo­granulation) and the places of the joints are not covered. The hoop is made of gold band which makes it unstable. The local craftsman did not follow exactly the pattern of the original ear­rings (compare the earrings from Messambria) and applied a composition known from the ear­rings with animal heads.

The second pair of earrings of this type (pl. VI, 2) could be considered product of a lo­cal workshop. The earrings are quite precisely manufacturée! and bear traces of a long use. Ob-viously they were roughly repaired - the front part of one of them was replaced by a plain plate, perhaps because of lack of a suitable die.

The style of the adornments from Apollonia is différent from those found in Odessos and to a great extent from the Messambrian ones. This faci supposes connection with différent Hellen­istic centres and limited links between these col­onies themselves. We may, however, speak about some similarities between the taste and fashion of Apollonia and Messambria - at both places were popular earrings with a head of maenad - but the adornments belong to différent vari­ants so they could not be considered évidence of direct links betweçn these two cities.

For this period loo there is not évidence that Messambria and Apollonia were mediators in the dissémination of the Hellenistic jewellery into the interior of Thrace. In Thrace there are no traces of the jewellery fashion popular in the two colonies and as a whole the gold adorn­ments (all of them imitations of Early Hellenis­tic ones) are very rare. During the 2"'^lhalf of the 3^r,1and the 2^mlcentury BC the culture in Thrace was, as it has been mentioned, under the strong La Tene influence and the leading tendency in the development of jewellery was différent.

Jewellery fashion of the Late Hellenistic Age: jewellery of Anchialo

We have scarce évidence about the devel­opment of the jewellery in the colonies on the western Black Sea coast in the period 1" century BC - 1 "century AD. There is almost no informa­tion about Apollonia and Messambria. The few late Hellenistic and early Roman adornments (a gern and a fingering with a gern, димитрова-Ммлчева 1980, 9 с бел. 11) found in Odessos will be discussed after their publication.

A rieh find of gold adornments from Anchia­lo (présent Pomorie) can be outlined against this general situation. It consists of a pair of hoop earrings with a figurine of a sphinx and anoth­er type composée! of plate with inlayeel stones and an amphora pendant, two necklaces - one of plaited band with amphora-like pendants and another one consisting of separate éléments and lion-heacl terminais, and a golden funeral wreath. The adornments are from a rieh burial mound dated to the end of the I^я Century BC or the beginning of the I*¹ Century AD (балабанов 1976, 4, 28-30 - here PI. VII). Most of ihese ob­jects are related to the late Hellenistic jewellery (Димитрова 1982, 3, 35 с бел.6) fashion and only some of them could be dateci to the very end of this period to which also belongs the burial itself. Though the two pair of earrings and the plated band necklace belongs to tvpes which appeared in différent periods they have similarly executed éléments so they make a set createci by one and the same jeweller.

The earrings have inlayed stones and am­phora-like pendants {Pl. VI fi). This type of earrings appeared, and différent variants were being disseminated, in the period 2^l,d—I^я cen­tury BC (Higgins 1961, 166, type 5C; Deppert-Lippitz 1985, pl. XXXI). The necklace (PI VII, 4) could hardly be dateci after the beginning of the 2^ml century BC, which would lead some changes in the conclusions concerning the de­velopment of this type. According to the ac­ceptée! for the présent dating the necklace from Anchialo is not only one of its late représenta­tives but it is separated by more than a century from identical spécimens from the hoard from Halmyros in Thessaly (Ruxer/Klbczak 1972, 239, pl. XII, 1, XXXI, 3, fig.8,h; Amandry 1953, 110-112, pl.XIII, kat.252; Segali. 1938, 39, N 33, pl.XII). There would not have been such a contradiction if the supposition of R. Higgins concerning the necklaces with polychrome déc­oration was taken into considération. According to it "the terminais decorated with inlayeel gar-net appeared on a later stage, probably not be­fóte 200 ВС" (Higgins 1961, 168). The necklace from Anchialo cannot be dated to a period later than the l^,! half of the 2"'¹ Century BC. To the same time is dated an identical necklace from Messambria recently displayed in the History Museum of Nessebar (Чпмбулева/Кожухаров 2000, 84, обр. 1).

The earrings with a figurine of a sphinx (pl. VII, 3) represent a variety of the earrings with whole figures. Though R. Higgins has not paicl special attention to the period of dissémination of these earrings, he has pointed out that above the figures ustially there is an inlayed garnet and he has gave examples from the late 3^,lland the 2"'¹ century BC (Higgins 1961, 168). As lai-as the earrings from Pomorie aie concerned the dating élément is the décoration on the head of the sphinx - garnets in a drop-like casing which appears on différent types of earrings from the 2"'^land first century BC (Miller 1979, 62, pi.25; Deppf.rt-Lippitz 1985, 256, pl.XXXI; Amandry, 1963, 115, 218, fig. 123).

The second necklace from this grave is not published yet. Only separate éléments of it have been preserved - terminais with zoomorphic décoration. It is also simultaneous to the rest of the objects from the set. It belongs to a type popular in the 2^ntl and the I^sl centuries ВС as well as later in the Roman period. A more pre­cise dating of the necklace can be based on the combination of two specific éléments - animal-head terminais and precious stones in casing. This combination we also see on the necklace from Ai tyuhovsky kurgan (from the middle of the 2'"'century or little later) considered one of the earlier représentatives of this type (HlGGlNS 1961, 169, type 4; Максимова 1979, 23, 57, обр. на стр. 29)

All this means that the adornment from An-chialo found in a grave from the end of the first century BC - the beginning ofthe first century AD, bear the specific stylistic features of the Hel­lenistic jewellery of the 2^ndand the beginning of the I^м century BC. In the lavish décoration of some spécimens with polychrome stones could be found the further trends of the development of the craft.

The conservatism in the choice of forms and motives, the use of Early Hellenistic construc­tion for the composition of the plated band necklace, the skilful applying of jewellery tech­niques speak of a professional workshop with long traditions. For the present, there is not enough évidence of its location in the region of the bay of Bourgas, nevertheless as it was men­tioned, it can be supposed that in the 2'"' cen­tury BC such leading jewellery centre was Mes­sambria. The same opinion has been expressed by R Balabanov who thinks that it is very likely these adornments to have been produced in a local workshop (Блллблнов 1976, 31).

The wreath (pl. VII, 2) is the only gold adorn­ment from this find which can be considered with a cei tainty as a local product made in a time close to that when finds were buried in the grave. It belongs to a type of funerary wreaths, the appearance of which is retateci to the end of the first century ВС (Максимова 1979, 131). In contrast to the représentative "solid" Earlyhel-lenistic examples these objects consist of a band with fastened foil leaves. Their spécifie fonction and fragile construction suppose that they were made in a locai workshop right before being put in the grave. This statement supports the supposition that the wreath and the grave itself date from the end ofthe first century BC or the beginning ofthe first century AD (Балабанов 1976, 31).

The fact that the wreaths appeared once more in Thrace can be explained with the new cultural situation on the Balkan península and in particular with the strengthening positions of Rome through which was revived an old tra­dition preserved in other centers during the whole Hellenistic period. The wreath from Anchialo is the earliest example of this new pe­riod. Later, these wreaths were put mainly in rich graves in South Thrace which date from the middle and the 2^n(l half ofthe firs century AD (Балабанов 1976, 31).

The jewellery fashion in Anhialo in the end ofthe first century BC and the beginning ofthe I^я century AD was totally under the influence of the late Hellenistic traditions. At the same time (and especially in the 2'"' half of the l^sl century AD) into the interior of Thrace producís of Ital-ian and provincial roman workshops penetrateci. They expressed the two tenclencies in the devel­opment of Roman jewellery - the Hellenistic and the Italian one. What was the role ofthe coastal centres in the process of dissémination of these new stylistic trends is difficult to suppose. For the present, we may judge only by several finds from the l^sl century AD from the Roman pool of the sanctuai y at Aquae Calidae near Burgas (Димитрова-Милчева 1980, кат. 98, 115, 213).

Références

Bi'AiuiiiicKii 1970